Cambodia Cities | Towns
Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh is the capital and largest city of Cambodia. Despite its reputation as a 'rough' city, Phnom Penh is easy to get around and is a great introduction to Cambodia. For western visitors, even those who have visited other Asian cities, Phnom Penh can be a bit of a shock. It can be very hot and (in the dry season) dusty, its infrastructure is lacking, and it is a very poor city - much poorer than, for example, Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). In the past the visitor who could not adjust to rubbish filled streets and large numbers of beggars could give Phnom Penh a miss. But things are changing. The infrastructure is improving rapidly - fewer power outages, streets are paved, rubbish is collected more frequently - and the city retains much of the beauty that made it a Paris of the east before 1970. Beautiful wide boulevards, fine colonial architecture and a park-like riverfront with cafés and restaurants aplenty help make Phnom Penh a worthwhile destination. Not necessarily for its standard tourist sights, which are few. But as a place to relax, watch the street life and absorb local color Phnom Penh rates very high among Asian cities. The beggars are still there, along with a great number of street kids and kids selling tourist paraphernalia, but this is most visible in heavily touristed areas. And generally the touts and kids are less aggressive and persistent than say their Indian or Vietnamese counterparts. Those who find themselves struggling with Phnom Penh's current state should recall the terrible times the city has been through in recent decades. In 1975 it was choked with up to 2 million refugees from the war between the then U.S.-backed government and the Khmer Rouge, and after it fell to the Khmer Rouge, it was completely emptied of civilians and allowed to crumble for the next four years. Most of the already small class of skilled professionals were murdered or driven into exile. The city fell to the Vietnamese Army in 1979, but the new Cambodian government had no money to spend on urban improvement until the peace settlement of 1992.
As Cambodia's economy has recovered a new rich class has arisen in Phnom Penh, and a crop of new hotels and restaurants has opened to accommodate them and the tourist trade; as yet however there's very little in between the extremely rich and the extremely poor. But here too there are changes in the wind; take a trip to the green-domed Sorya mall and you're transported to the consumerist world to which the emerging middle and upper classes aspire. The free Phnom Penh Visitors Guide by Canby Publications (available from hotels/guesthouses and some restaurants) contains lots of good info on Phnom Penh, including accommodation/bar/restaurant/shop details, travel & transport options, maps, etc. There is no shortage of Internet cafés in Phnom Penh. Most provide slow service, suffer occasional power outages and do not run firewalls or anti-virus programs. Sunny Internet, 178 Street (opp Foreign Correspondents Club), also Sisowath Quay (next to the Riverstreet restaurant). Provides a faster service at a higher rate and is popular with tourists and expats. Wireless and wired connections for laptops are available at a number of outlets - most five-star hotels (which provide high-speed broadband access, but at a premium), and a number of cafés along Sisowath Quay including the Foreign Correspondents Club, Fresco Café (under the FCC), K-West Café (at the Amanjaya Hotel), the Jungle Bar and Grill, and Phnom Penh Café (near Paragon Hotel).
Sisowath Quay is an attractive boulevard running along the banks of the Mekong and Tonle Sap, and is fronted by a pleasant park. The built-up side of the street is home to cafés and shops and the better class of bar, and is extremely popular with tourists and expat Westerners. The esplanade along the river is equally popular with Cambodians, who come here in the cool of the evening to enjoy the quasi-carnival atmosphere. It begins at the Royal Palace (or rather, at the river-front park opposite the Palace), and is perhaps best experienced in the early evening. See A Stroll on Sisowath Quay for a self-guided tour. The Royal Palace and the two magnificent pagodas in the Palace Grounds, the Silver Pagoda and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, are among the few public buildings in Phnom Penh really worth seeing. They were built in the 19th century with French technology and Cambodian designs, and have survived the traumas of the 20th century amazingly intact. See them early before it gets too hot. They are in any case closed 11:00-14:00, when all sensible Cambodians take a nap. No photography is allowed inside the Silver Pagoda and some of the Palace buildings. You're expected to dress decently (no bare legs or shoulders), but you can rent sarongs and oversized T-shirts at the entrance. The National Museum (opposite the Royal Palace) contains an excellent collection of art from Cambodia's "golden age" of Angkor, and a lovely courtyard at the center. The pleasant little park in front of the Museum is the site of the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, at which the success or otherwise of the coming harvest is determined. You may have heard stories of sightseers carrying umbrellas inside to avoid showers of bat droppings, but alas, the bats moved out after the renovation of 2002. Wat Phnom is on a hill at the center of a small park near Sisowath Quay, on St. 94. The temple itself is notable more for its historic importance than what you'll see there today, but the park is a pleasant green space and a popular gathering place for locals. A few monkeys keep quarters there as well and will help themselves to any drinks you've left unattended. The impressive Buddhist-style Independence Memorial, commemorating the departure of the French in 1953, dominates the centre of the city. Nearby is the very ugly Stalin-style Liberation Memorial, marking the Vietnamese capture of the city in 1979. Although the Cambodians were glad to see the back of the Khmer Rouge, they don't like the Vietnamese much either, and have demonstrated this by neglecting the memorial for 20 years. It seems to be used mainly as a convenient urinal. Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) (Street 113, Boeng Keng Kang 3, Chamkar Morn, Phnom Penh; tel. 855-23-300-698, fax 855-23-210-358) was a school converted into Cambodia's most important prison in 1975. More than 14,000 people were tortured here before being killed at the Killing Fields south of Phnom Penh; only 8 prisoners made it out alive. The museum is easily accessible and a must-see for everyone interested in Cambodia's horrific recent past. The infamous "skull map" has been dismantled, although there are still skulls stacked in cabinets, implements of torture and disturbing photographs. The Documentation Center of Cambodia (66 Preah Sihanouk Blvd. P.O. Box 1110 Phnom Penh; tel. 855-23-211-875, fax 855-23-210-358) manages the museum as part of its mission to record the history of the Khmer Rouge and gather evidence, should any Khmer Rouge leaders ever be brought to trial. The Killing Fields at Cheoung Ek, about 17km south of Phnom Penh, is where the Khmer Rouge killed many thousands of their victims during their four-year reign of terror. Today the site is marked by a Buddhist stupa packed full of human skulls - the sides are made of glass so the visitors can see them up close. There are also pits in the area where mass graves were unearthed. It is a serene yet somber place. Stung Meanchey Garbage Dump is where hundreds of the poorest of the poor, including many small children, swarm over the refuse hoping to find anything of value. A certain type of tourist visits this place - if it's you, make sure you stop by the NGO "Pour sourire un enfant", which helps the children of this place, and make a donation.
Banlung
Banlung is a small town in northeastern Cambodia, and is the capital of the province of Ratanakiri. This part of the country is heavily jungled, and home to 12 different ethnic minority groups, giving the province a sort of "edge of civilization" feel to it. Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake is a 700,000 year old volcanic crater lake in the Yeak Laom Commune Protected Area. The lake itself, as well as the surrounding areas, are considered sacred by the local tribal minorities, and many a legend abound about this lake. There are docks on the lake, and swimming and picknicking are options here. There is also a hiking trail which winds around the lake. Along the trail there is a visitors centre displaying some objects and folklore of the local hill tribes. There is a entrance fee for this area. Virachey National Park is about 37 kilometres northeast of town, and borders Laos and Vietnam. It's chock full of jungle and mountains, and hasn't been completely explored yet. In the wet season, not all areas of the park are accessible. The Ministery of Environment (Biodiversity and Protected Areas Management Project) offers jungle treks into the park, guided by a park ranger and community guide. Their office is located near the center of Banlung.
Battambang
Battambang is Cambodia's second most populous city. It is a popular tourist destination due to its many famous statues, which seemingly decorate every public place. Most are of animals (mythical and real) and divinities (also mythical and real?). The most famous of these statues is on the main road in from Phnom Penh and is of an ancient Khmer King holding a stick which he used to quell rebellions in the Battambang area. The name of the town / province comes from this legend. The town also has a number of fine colonial buildings along the river including a very grand French era governor’s residence.
Kep
Kep is a seaside resort that was Cambodia's top seaside destination until eclipsed in the 1960s by Sihanoukville (and, soon after, decades of civil war), today's Kep is slowly being rediscovered by travelers. Kep Beach is a single, kilometer long crescent of sand near the tip of the Kep peninsula. Dining platforms and seafood vendors line the road behind the beach. Busy on weekends but often deserted during the week. The road through Kep traces the coastline to the beach and then circles back on itself. Cars and vans must pay admission to drive the loop. Motorcycles and pedestrians are free. Be aware that the loop is a one-way street and the police do occasionally enforce the law, levying fines against violators. Rabbit Island (Koh Tunsay) is an easily visited island near Kep (about 20-40 minutes by local boat) and features white sand beaches and coconut trees. The water is relatively clear and good for snorkeling around the rocks where you can see lots of fish but, unfortunately, no coral. There are now some very basic guesthouse facilities on the island. Arrange a boat trip through your guesthouse in Kampot or Kep.
Koh Kong
Koh Kong is in western Cambodia, adjacent to the border with Thailand. Around Koh Kong, there are islands, mountains, jungles, rivers, waterfalls, a zoo, casino, and a lot more. For keeping in touch, there’s the Koh Kong Computer Internet Café.
Kratie
Kratie (pronounced kra-chey) is a tiny town in northeastern Cambodia. Despite its small size, it is the capital of the province of the same name. Kratie is one of the four provinces in northeastern Cambodia, and although it is relatively remote and not heavily touristed, travelling here won't earn you points for being a pioneer. There's no large scale tourism, but plenty of backpackers pour through here during the peak season. The town has developed to meet this demand, with very good budget accommodation that is well known in backpacking circles.The province is heavily rural, so be mindful of yourself and your behaviour. Phnom Sombok is a rather nifty temple north of town. Situated on the only hill anywhere near Kratie, all you have to do is head north and look for the hill. A long set of steps lead to a pavilion, the interior of which is painted with more torture scenes, depictions of what happens to those not virtuous enough to lead a holy and clean lifestyle. Makes a good stop on the way back to or from the dolphins. Sambor (about 40km) is a pre-Angkorian era settlement. The temples, among which is Wat Sorsor Muoy Roi (temple of 100 columns) contain several colourful murals that tell legends of nature, and other traditional Buddhist stories. The original structure is no longer standing, in its place is a reconstructed temple. Guess how many columns it's got?
Poipet
Poipet is a small town in western Cambodia, near the Thai border and the gateway to Cambodia for many overland travellers coming from Thailand. It does not provide a very warm welcome. Gordon Sharpless notes that "Poipet more or less rhymes with toilet" and this caustic observation is, sadly, true. Poipet is a miserable huddle of touts, beggars, thieves and dodgy casinos for daytripping Thais, and spending any more time than absolutely necessary is not recommended. With gambling being illegal in Thailand, Poipet's location has made it a popular destination for Thais longing to risk their money on roulette and poker. Poipet's gambling industry is growing fast and there are several large, opulent casinos in town, in rather disgusting contrast to the begging children near the border. Other than gambling, whoring and lowering one's opinion of humanity, there are no sights or activities in Poipet. Poipet is not safe, particularly at night. Watch out for pickpockets and snatch thieves. If you've managed to arrange a taxi away from the monopoly, don't pay up front, and do not let anybody you don't know into the car. The small upside to the travel monopoly is that, once the exorbitant price for the taxi has been paid, they're reliable, and the driver will take you anywhere you like once you've reached your destination.
Siem Reap
The town of Siem Reap, in northern Cambodia, is the primary access point for the Angkor Archaeological Park. Siem Reap, literally "Siam Defeated", commemorates a Khmer victory over the neighboring kingdom of Thailand. These days, however, the only rampaging hordes are the tourists heading to Angkor and this once quaint village has become the largest boomtown and construction site in Cambodia. It's quite laid-back and all in all a pleasant place to stay while touring the temples. It's a nice compromise between observing Cambodian life and enjoying the amenities of modern services and entertainment, thanks to the large expatriate community in Siem Reap. As business has increased, so have the numbers of people wanting your custom. Expect to receive almost constant offers for motodop and tuk-tuk rides, along with everything else which drivers may be able to offer to you. Be sure to pick up your free Siem Reap Angkor Visitors Guide from your hotel/guesthouse. It contains lots of info on Siem Reap and Angkor, including hotel/bar/restaurant/shop info, travel info, maps, etc.
The reason most people come to Siem Reap is the Angkor Archaeological Park, and is thoroughly covered on its own page. Landmine Museum is located a bumpy 15-min ride from the main road to Angkor (any motodop or tuk-tuk driver will know), this jungle shack was set up by local deminer Aki Ra to educate locals and tourists about the dangers of land mines. Piles of defused mines and UXO lie around the site and the guides are mostly teenagers who were orphaned or injured by mines, all now living nearby. A very worthwhile trip that brings home the scale of the problem and shows you a slice of "real" Cambodia. Free entry, but donations very welcome — everything will be used for mine clearance. A short distance outside of the city center, there is a small bone stupa to mark the Khmer Rouge killing fields that were near Siem Reap. There is no cost to enter, but donations are requested, as the temple that hosts the memorial is under expansion. An alternative trip when you are feeling 'templed out' is to visit the Tonle Sap lake a few miles from town and take a boat trip past the floating villages. The fast hydrofoil to Phnom Penh also passes this way. Kampong Phluck, off the Highway to Phnom Penh, is only reachable by motorbike and then boat, and is a much more authentic 'floating village experience' than the one close to the Tonlé Sap-ferry harbour. Enquire at your local hotel for a day trip to this fascinating village on stilts. This day trip should cost around US$30 and it takes about 2 hours to reach the village, depending on the road conditions and water level. The silk worm farm is worth the hike. Again, ask any tuk-tuk driver.
Internet cafés abound in Siem Reap. Speed of connection, and speed of PC, very much depends from place to place. E-Café, on Sivatha St north of Psar Chas, is a cut above the rest in connection and service quality, as well as price. Figo's cafe's food is a bit more expensive, but offers free wireless internet to its customers. Generally the Siem Reap area and the temples of Angkor are relatively safe, however the usual cautions still apply as with any town or city. Whilst visiting the temples, however, beware of off duty police officers, who are in uniform, that start walking beside you and start showing you around the temples. At this point either say that you would like to see the temples yourself, or agree on a price at the start. Several people have been requested for a fee at the end of the temple tour and you are not going to argue with a member of the police force! The official wage for a police office is very low, so they can easily double their salary by being tourist guides. Siem Reap and the Angkor temples have long since been thoroughly demined.
Sihanoukville
Sihanoukville (Krong Preah Seihanu), formerly Kompong Som and familiarly just Snookyville or even Snooky is a seaside town featuring Cambodia's best-known beaches. In a land with thousands of years of history, Sihanoukville is a colorful but tragic upstart. A mere fifty years ago, a French-Cambodian construction carved a camp out of the jungle and started building the first deep-sea port of a newly independent Cambodia. Named Sihanoukville in 1964 after the ruling prince of the kingdom, the booming port and its golden beaches soon drew Cambodia's jetsetting elite, spawning the first Angkor Beer brewery and the modernist seven-story Independence Hotel which, claim locals, even played host to Jacqueline Kennedy on her whirlwind tour of Cambodia in 1967. Alas, the party came to an abrupt end in 1970 when Sihanouk was deposed in a coup and Cambodia descended into civil war. The town – renamed Kompong Som – soon fell on hard times: the victorious Khmer Rouge used the Independence Hotel for target practice and, when they made the mistake of hijacking an American container ship, the port was bombed by the U.S. Air Force. Even after Pol Pot's regime was driven from power, the bumpy highway to the capital was long notorious for banditry and the beaches stayed empty. Peace returned in 1997 and in the ensuing ten years Sihanoukville has been busy picking up the pieces. First visited only by a few intrepid backpackers, guidebooks still talk of walls pockmarked by bullets, but any signs of war are hard to spot in today's Sihanoukville, whose new symbol seems to be the construction site. More and more Khmers and expats have settled down to run hotels, bars and restaurants, and the buzz of what the New York Times dubbed "Asia's next trendsetting beach" is starting to spread far and wide. After 30 years of housing only ghosts, the Independence Hotel is wrapped in scaffolding and scheduled to be rise from the ashes soon.
Medical services in Sihanoukville are very limited and basic. The best Medical service is offered by the CT Clinic. This is the only one trusted by Expats who live in Sihanoukville. The public hospital should be avoided at all costs, as it is terrible. In case of major trouble evacuation is necessary. Sihanoukville area code is 034. There are many Internet cafes in Sihanoukville, some guesthouses and many hotels offer the facility. The best is Ana Internet in the town centre between Club Sandwich and The Orange Mini Mart. They can also book flights and renew visas there. The new main Post Office is now near the Victory Park on the left hand side of the road as you go to Vicory hill. The Vietnamese consulate on Ekareach Street issues 30 day tourist visas on a same-day basis. The opening times are 10am-12pm and 2pm to 4pm Monday to Saturday.
The reason to visit Sihanoukville is the beaches. Not as crowded as some of the Thai resorts, but they can be cramped on weekends and holidays. For diving, go to one of the nearby islands. The town itself doesn't offer much to see. From north to south, the beaches are:
Victory Beach - south of the commercial port with plenty of budget accommodation nearby on Weather Station Hill.
Independence Beach - also known as '7-chann beach' after the defunct, seven-storey Independence Hotel.
Sokha Beach - all but 100 meters of it reserved for guests of the Sokha Beach Resort.
Ochheuteal Beach - the most popular beach, with many restaurants, bars and food vendors. Pronounced, roughly, "oh-chur-teal". The northern part is called Serendipity Beach, and offers guesthouses right on the beach.
Otres Beach - south of Serendipity, this is the least developed and crowded beach.
Other places of interest include Kampong Pier Nup Lok, the old fishing port 2 km north of the commercial port which offers some nice views.
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Cambodia Travel Information has been extracted in part from ‘http://wikitravel.org/en/Cambodia’ and is based work by Has Kosal, Jani Patokallio, Michele Ann Jenkins, Felicity T, Maïte Romand & Hugues De Keyzer and Aneel Nazareth, Wikitravel user(s) Texugo and Episteme, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel and others.
